Today’s Podcast: Consulting Arborist Michael Santos tells us about online resources for homeowners to get more information about the trees in their yard.
How to (Possibly) Thwart Tree Damage Before a Storm
During or after a particularly violent fall or winter wind/rain/snow storm, TV news crews rush to the most photogenic damage during these rare occasions: downed trees, usually leaning against a house or crushing a car.
Without the correct care of the trees on your property, winter storms and trees will not get along. Most susceptible are the trees that keep their leaves year round, such as eucalyptus and camphor, along with the conifer family: pines, firs, redwoods and cedars. All that mass of greenery acts as a sail in a heavy wind, bending trees at ridiculous angles. Another cause of winter tree failure is crown rot, which despite its name, refers to the deterioration of the root system near the base of the tree. Combine that with a couple of inches of rain onto already saturated soils, and you have tree roots heaving towards the surface, leading to these pictures popping up on the TV news:
If this is the view from your window, the day after a major rain and wind storm is not necessarily the best day for the gardener to tackle the hazardous task of cleaning up the remnants of trees, shrubs and other plants that took a beating. If wind and rain is still in the forecast, the prevalence of slippery conditions and the chance of more falling debris should limit your cleaning chores to dragging broken branches away from the scene of the crime. It is not a good day to be climbing ladders or scrambling into trees while balancing a chain saw. Leave that to the professionals.
Signs of Potential Tree Failure
Arborists offer this good piece of advice for those surveying the fallen aftermath of a major storm: Limb failure is largely a product of poor tree maintenance over time. Take care of your trees, or they may take care of themselves in ways you won't appreciate.
According to the University of California publication, "Inspect Your Landscape Trees for Hazards", a nice day in autumn (or winter, spring or summer, for that matter) is the time to take an inventory of any possible future tree damage before you, your house or your car becomes the next victim of a falling tree or branch.
Leaning Trees: Are your trees not as upright as the result of recent heavy winds? Can you see newly upheaved roots or soil around those trees? Then, immediate action is required: call in a professional, certified, bonded and insured arborist to do an onsite inspection and offer a solution (find one near you at treesaregood.org). Newly leaning trees are an imminent hazard. If you have a tree that has leaned for a number of years, that tree can still be a hazard during wet, windy weather. Taking periodic photographs can help you determine if a greater lean is developing.
Multiple Trunked Trees: This co-dominant condition can result in breakage of major tree parts during storms. Usually, these trunks are weakly attached. Inspect the point where the two trunks meet; if you see splitting beginning, call in an arborist.
Weakly Attached Branches: Trees with many branches arising from the same point on the trunk are prone to breaking during wind storms. Prune out any split branches. Thin out multiple branches.
Hanging or Broken Branches: If you see storm damaged branches hanging from the tree, remove them as soon as possible. This includes removing any completely broken branches that may be resting elsewhere in the tree's canopy.
Cracks in Trunks and Branches: Measure the depth of any cracks with a ruler. If those cracks are more than three inches deep, call in an arborist to determine the best course of action.
Dead Branches/Trees: Branches or entire trees that have completely died are very likely to come tumbling down in a storm. Dead branches are most noticeable in the summer when the tree is in full leaf.
Cavities and Decay: Large, open pockets where branches meet the trunk, or at the base of the trunk, can mean big trouble. The presence of mushrooms on the bark or on exposed roots may indicate wood decay. Call in an arborist.
The Arbor Day Foundation website has this guide to proper pruning techniques.
Also: Tips for Hiring an Arborist.
Choose the right pruning equipment for shrubs and trees:
Hand Shears for branches less than the thickness of your little finger.
Loppers for branches less than the thickness of your thumb.
Pruning saws for branches greater than the thickness of your thumb.
Want to avoid damaging your trees while pruning? Here’s an illustrated guide for pruning large branches (which are branches that are greater than the thickness of your thumb):
The three-cut method
When pruning larger branches, use the three-cut method to prevent the falling branch from stripping the bark, below the cut.
CUT ONE: Make a cut halfway through the underside of the branch to be removed. Position the cut about one foot out from the branch collar. That’s where the branch attaches to the trunk.
CUT TWO: saw through the top of the branch, about two inches further out from cut one. The branch should give way about halfway through this cut, with the undercut portion preventing any stripping damage to the tree along the stem.
CUT THREE: This is the cleanup cut. Saw through the remaining branch, being sure to leave the branch collar. The branch collar usually extends out less than an inch from the trunk.
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Fred Hoffman is also a University of California Cooperative Extension Master Gardener in Sacramento County.
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