Bermudagrass is Forever.
You can control it, you can suppress it, but you can't get rid of it.
In Episode 155 of the Garden Basics with Farmer Fred podcast, college horticulture professor (retired) Debbie Flower and I sing the blues about bermudagrass, a pasture grass, turf grass and golf course staple that escaped to infest your yard. Don’t worry, it’s safe for your pets to listen in; no actual singing took place.
According to David M. Kopec, Extension Turfgrass Specialist at the University of Arizona Cooperative Extension, bermudagrass started off as a hitchhiker on slave ships headed to America, and evolved into a much desired feed source and lawn variety:
“Bermudagrass is most likely the toughest grass used for turf in areas of the desert southwest, the southern plains, and the humid southeastern United States. No other warm season grass has so many attributes. These include:
· excellent resistance to heat and drought
· low water use rate
· dense sod formation
· tolerance of a wide range of soil pH ranges
· good tolerance to salty water and conditions
· good traffic tolerance
· relative ease of establishment
· grows on hard soil surfaces and shallow soils, better than most other grassesBecause bermudagrass has specialized growth stems and a relatively rapid growth rate, it is usually excellent at crowding out weeds. Also, this is the primary reason why bermudagrass grows back so well when it is injured. Underground shoots (called rhizomes) help bermudagrass fill in void spots in a lawn. Above ground runners (stolons), similar to those on strawberry plants also serve the same function. While these properties are highly beneficial, they are often disdained as making bermudagrass and "invasive weed" where it is not wanted. Where did bermudagrass come from anyway?
Like almost all of our turfgrass species, bermudagrass is an introduced plant to the United States. The origin of the first introduction of bermudagrass most likely came from contaminated hay, which was used as bedding, when slaves were brought to America. Millions and millions of seeds were distributed initially across the eastern United States. Surviving plants then were able to make more seeds and so on.
Bermudagrass plants were then used exclusively for forage purposes for hundreds of years and no doubt also as a lawn grass by default, even though seed was sold mostly for forage. Bermudagrass was used in the southern United States in the early 1900's as a golf course turf, and was used as an "alternative" for sand greens, which were exactly that – a putting surface comprised of sand, with no grass! Over time (many decades), lower growing types of "common bermudagrass" began to show up on seeded bermudagrass greens.
Aha! And thus the escape began. Although primarily a problem in sunny areas of drier, warmer climates, invasive common bermudagrass can be found or laying in wait in places beneath snow sculptures, even in parts of the northeast and midwest, just waiting, waiting underground. In all, bermudagrass is an issue in 36 states. “I think that in dry climates, the dormant parts of bermudagrass could last several years,” says University of California Farm Advisor Emeritus and weed specialist, John Roncoroni. “But under moist warm conditions, like a typical California winter, I wouldn’t think they would last more than 2-5 years. The good thing is that bermudagrass grows relatively shallow into the ground and can be dug up. For control after digging I would water and dig again…and a third time. It probably won’t get all of it, but it will get most of it.”
Lack of water? Not a problem for bermudagrass. When faced with a drought, according to Texas A&M University, actively growing bermudagrass just produces more seeds. Oh, and the seed can remain viable in the ground for two years.
Bermudagrass spreads by a variety of methods, according to Debbie Flower, as she told us in Episode 155 of the Garden Basics podcast:
“Bermudagrass has multiple ways of reproducing and storing food, so that it can regrow if other parts have broken off. It has what are called rhizomes, which are underground stems that grows horizontally under the soil. And it is somewhat fat, not super fat, but it's fat enough for it to store food all along the length of that underground stem; and, it can be very deep in the soil. The depth that things grow in soil is very dependent on soil type and the availability of oxygen and water there. But Bermudagrass has proven to be able to grow in very variable conditions, including deeper in the soil. So that's one way that it stores food. And if you break off a piece of that rhizome and put it on the soil somewhere else, it will regrow from there.
It also has stolons. Stolons are another type of stem, stems that also store food, and they travel across the surface of the soil. I used to tell my students that "stolons steal space". Those stolons are very waxy and they can, if you let the Bermudagrass grow, if you inherit a patch of soil that is heavily infested with Bermudagrass, they will grow over each other. And eventually you get a layer of very waxy stems that will not allow water to penetrate. And so it's very difficult for other things to grow. If you go to pull stolons out, you've left the rhizomes underground and potentially broken off the stolons where they have rooted at other places in the ground. The stolons grows across the surface of the soil, with potential for a new plant at every node. A node is where a leaf or another stem or branch would grow. It can also grow roots. And so you can break off either side of that node and it can make itself a whole new plant. So it can reproduce that way.
And then, of course, it flowers and it produces a stalk. It looks like the ribs of an umbrella, that's the flower structure. And there are lots of little seeds in there and so it can reproduce from seeds, as well.”
In the podcast we discuss the usually futile efforts of homeowners, trying to make bermudagrass disappear with chemicals. As promised, here is the link to the University of California’s research on controlling bermudagrass. Note that there are a lot of considerations when using products with active ingredients such as sethoxydim or fluazifop. The product label will have information about the timing, stage of growth of the weed, reapplication rates and use of the chemical near surrounding plants that might be impacted. As always, read and follow all label directions.
One tactic that can give longer-lasting results of freedom from bermudagrass: soil solarization. And you can increase your chances of success by using solarization after digging the weeds out. Three times.
And Now, Something A Bit More Pleasant.
Based on our conversation with the UC Davis Arboretum & Public Gardens Superintendent Emeritus, Warren Roberts, regarding the Plant of the Week, the persimmon tree.
Persimmon: THE Edible Ornamental of Autumn
California's Central Valley is ablaze right now with the brightly colored persimmon. And it's not just the fruit.
Persimmon tree leaves can turn a brilliant hue of red before the first big wind and rain storm of late Autumn washes them off their branches.
What's left behind is the unpicked fruit, dangling like holiday ornaments during December. That's a feast for our eyes...as well as a banquet for hungry birds.
Japanese persimmons have adapted well to climates that have warm, dry summers and mild winters. At least 500 different Japanese persimmon (Diospyros kaki) varieties were brought to California during a major planting spree from 1870 to 1920. In 1877 alone, more than 5,000 plants in 19 varieties were imported from Japan. As a result, 99% of the commercial persimmon crop is grown in California.
Persimmons are quite nutritious, as well, loaded with Vitamin A, Vitamin C, Fiber, and antioxidants such as Beta-Carotene and Lycopene.
Bare root persimmon trees will be available at local nurseries in USDA Zone 9 during late December, January and February, followed by availability at nurseries throughout the country.
Give them full sun and a regular irrigation in the dry months for best production. Persimmon trees can tolerate partial shade.
The American persimmon tree (Diospyros virginiana) is native to our East Coast, and can be found from Connecticut in the northeast to Kansas in the west and Texas to Florida in the south. The American persimmon tree produces fruit that needs to soften up quite a bit before its sweet, butterscotch-like flavor comes out; it is considered an astringent fruit. The tree itself is better suited to those with enough space to grow to its eventual height of 60 feet, with a tendency to form thickets of smaller trees that developed from root suckers.
The fruit of the more-modest growing (up to 30 feet tall ) Japanese persimmon trees (Diospyros kaki) are usually classified as either astringent or non-astringent. For fresh eating straight from the tree, choose a non-astringent, self-pollinating variety such as Fuyu, Giant Fuyu, Yemon or Izu. Astrigent varieties, which need to soften thoroughly before they sweeten, include Hachiya, Chocolate or Tamopan. Those varieties are self-fruitful, as well.
Persimmon growing advice from the California Rare Fruit Growers (CRFG):
"Location: Full sun with some air movement is recommended for persimmon trees in inland areas, although they will tolerate some partial shade. Persimmons grown in cooler areas should have full sun with protection from cooling breezes. As an attractive ornamental the tree fits well in the landscape. It does not compete well with eucalyptus.
Soil: Persimmons can withstand a wide rage of conditions as long as the soil is not overly salty, but does best in deep, well drained loam. A pH range of 6.5 to 7.5 is preferred. The tree has a strong tap root which may mean digging a deeper hole than usual when planting (when on D. kaki stock).
Irrigation: Persimmon trees will withstand short periods of drought, but the fruit will be larger and of higher quality with regular watering. Extreme drought will cause the leaves and fruit to drop prematurely. Any fruit left on the tree will probably sunburn. Some 36 to 48 inches of water are needed annually, applied gradually in spring and tapering off in the fall. Hot inland areas may require 2 or 3 applications weekly, while coastal areas may need watering only once every 6 weeks, depending on the soil. If a drip system is is used, the emitters should be moved away from the trunk as the tree matures.
Fertilization: Most trees do well with a minimum of fertilizing. Excess nitrogen can cause fruit drop. If mature leaves are not deep green and shoot growth is less than a foot per year, apply a balanced fertilizer such as a 10-10-10 at a rate of 1 pound per inch of trunk diameter at ground level. Spread the fertilizer evenly under the canopy in late winter or early spring.
Pruning: Prune persimmon trees to develop a strong framework of main branches while the tree is young. Otherwise the fruit, which is borne at the tips of the branches, may be too heavy and cause breakage. A regular program of removal of some new growth and heading others each year will improve structure and reduce alternate bearing. An open vase system is probably best. Even though the trees grow well on their own, persimmons can be pruned heavily as a hedge, as a screen, or to control size. They even make a nice espalier. Cut young trees back to 1/2 high (or about 3 feet) at the time of planting.
Pests and Diseases: Persimmons are relatively problem-free, although mealybug and scale in association with ants can sometimes cause problems. Ant control will usually take care of these pests. Other occasional pests include white flies, thrips which can cause skin blemishes and a mite that is blamed for the "brown lace collar" near the calyx. Waterlogging can also cause root rot. Vertebrate pests such as squirrels, deer, coyotes, rats, opossums and birds are fond of the fruit and gophers will attack the roots. Other problems include blossom and young fruit shedding, especially on young trees. This is not usually a serious problem, but if the drop is excessive, it may be useful to try girdling a few branches. Over watering or over fertilization may also be responsible. Large quantities of small fruit on an otherwise healthy tree can be remedied by removing all but one or two fruit per twig in May or June.
Harvest: Harvest astringent varieties when they are hard but fully colored. They will soften on the tree and improve in quality, but you will probably lose many fruit to the birds. Astringent persimmons will ripen off the tree if stored at room temperature. Non-astringent persimmons are ready to harvest when they are fully colored, but for best flavor, allow them to soften slightly after harvest. Both kinds of persimmons should be cut from the tree with hand-held pruning shears, leaving the calyx intact Unless the fruit is to be used for drying whole, the stems should be cut as close to the fruit as possible. Even though the fruit is relatively hard when harvested, it will bruise easily, so handle with care.
Storage: Mature, hard astringent persimmons can be stored in the refrigerator for at least a month. They can also be frozen for 6 to 8 months. Non-astringent persimmons can be stored for a short period at room temperature. They will soften if kept with other fruit in the refrigerator. Persimmons also make an excellent dried fruit. They can either be peeled and dried whole or cut into slices (peeled or unpeeled) and dried that way. When firm astringent persimmons are peeled and dried whole they lose all their astringency and develop a sweet, date-like consistency.”
And we are in total agreement with the CRFG: persimmons make an excellent dried fruit, a great sweet snack or for use in cookies or breads.
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Fred Hoffman is also a University of California Cooperative Extension Master Gardener based in Sacramento County, California.
Correction from last week:
